‘Out of the Blue’: My Experience Of Swimming With The Sharks in Hanifaru Bay

For SLUB Magazine

I held my breath as a large manta ray glided through the water. Strange and alien-like, its mouth was open wide as it headed straight toward me. In one smooth movement, it curved to the right, its fin narrowly missing my head. It then executed two perfect somersaults underwater before moving to join the rest of the group. I adjusted my mask and took a deep breath through my scuba regulator as I surveyed the scene around me. Dozens of manta rays were performing some kind of underwater ballet as they fed on microscopic plankton in the sea. Dark gray on top and white below, they looked like fighter jets flying in formation, their long fins resembling wings.

A dim clanging sound made me turn to witness a more incredible sight. The dive instructor signaled for us to look around. Out of the blue, a large dark shape floated toward us. It was a whale shark! With its wide, flat mouth open as it slowly swam toward the center of the action, it was also feeding. I stared in disbelief as I realized it was bigger than the boat we had arrived in! My fellow divers converged toward it, clicking photos with their underwater cameras and trying unsuccessfully to capture its entire body within their camera frames.

I have always been fascinated by the world underwater and the life that exists therein, ever since I was a child and went swimming in the ocean. At the age of 21, I had my first scuba diving experience, and from then, I never looked back. About a hundred dives later, I am on a mission to find the best places to dive in and encounter the most incredible underwater creatures. That’s how I discovered Hanifaru Bay.

Every year between May and October, this amazing phenomenon takes place in the Maldives, right in the middle of the Indian Ocean. Hanifaru Bay—a small, shallow atoll—turns into a giant aquarium where you can swim with manta rays and whale sharks. The combination of monsoon high tides and ocean currents brings a lot of plankton into the bay. This all-you-can-eat buffet attracts up to 200 manta rays and 3 or 4 whale sharks at a time, making it look like a storm in a fishbowl.

Because of these picturesque encounters, Hanifaru Bay has turned into one of the most popular spots in the world to snorkel and swim with the mantas. Dozens of photographers and tourists visit this small atoll every year to witness this once-in-a-lifetime spectacle.

This natural phenomenon has been termed “The Feeding Frenzy” and has been featured by The National Geographic and The Discovery Channel, among others. Due to the smorgasbord of the plankton, the manta rays sometimes exhibit strange behavior known as cyclone feeding, where groups of mantas swim in spiral formation, making it look like a beautifully choreographed dance underwater.

“But aren’t these creatures dangerous?” one might ask. The simple answer – not at all!
Despite their size, both manta rays and whale sharks are non-aggressive and, in fact, quite friendly with snorkelers and divers. There has never been a recorded incident of these species harming humans. It’s true, they have enormous mouths, but they only eat the tiniest plant and animal organisms called the plankton, the favorite food of these gentle giants.

Manta rays are distant cousins of the shark, minus the bad reputation. Shaped like giant bats, their wingspan can reach 7 meters (20 feet) wide. They are entertaining and acrobatic swimmers, sometimes performing loops and even leaping out of the water’s surface. They have long tails, similar to stingrays but without the menacing sting.

Whale sharks are the largest fish in the world and can grow up to lengths of 12 meters (40 feet)! They can be recognized by a distinct pattern of white spots and ridges across their blue-gray backs. Unfortunately, whale sharks are on the verge of extinction. To catch a glimpse of one of these amazing creatures in its natural habitat is an unforgettable experience.

I hung weightless in the vast blue waters as the mantas swooped and twirled around me, performing their graceful dance. Watching these mystical, giant creatures in this ethereal aquatic setting filled me with a sense of calm. For a while, it felt like visiting another world, or living in a dream.

Here’s a summary of all the information you might need to indulge in this once-in-a-lifetime experience yourself:

How to get there:

Hanifaru Bay is located in Baa Atoll of the Maldives. You can fly to Hulhule international airport in Malé, the capital of the Maldives.

When to go:

July and August are the best months for the feeding frenzy, though you can see manta rays from June till October.

Where to stay:

Baa Atoll is a coral formation in the middle of the ocean. You can stay at one of the local islands around Baa Atoll and commute to the site by boat for diving/snorkeling. The closest ones are Dharavandhoo and Maalhos.

How can one book this experience?

Visit www.gypseatrip.com, where we offer curated manta trips to Maldives in the monsoon season. Or you can DM us on Instagram @gypseatrip for more details. 

Author

  • Tascha Eipe is a content creator and underwater photographer, based in Mumbai, India. With over a 100 travel show episodes directed for TravelXP lifestyle channel, she has explored 35 countries across the globe. A passionate diver since the age of 20, Tascha is a PADI certified Rescue diver with 100+ dives under her belt.

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